Kenan And His Frau

 

Another day in Baku and another trip out of town to see more of the area. Today we ventured out onto the Abseron Peninsula to the town of Pirallahi on the Island of Artyom. A not scenic but strategic destination for the oil industry, we were quickly introduced to life in old Soviet tenement blocks surrounded by functional but not so attractive support services in the small town. After taking in some of the ambiance we headed north on the only road in town going that way into a vast wasteland of sand, scrub brush, oil puddles, and functional/non-functional derricks. Along the way we ran into a couple of workers who just had puzzled looks on their faces, asking us what we were doing there. We replied that we didn't know either and just kept walking toward the sea. Every now and then a truck would pass honking it's horn, or a car slowing down to take a look. After about a 2 km walk we happened upon a small settlement of houses and cement buildings. I stopped to take a picture of a bobbing oil derrick in the middle of the little town when an agitated man came walking around the corner and started barking questions at us. Where are you from? What is your business here? What do you do for a living? Where are you going? What are you doing here? Blah, blah, blah. We simply told him we are tourists walking to the beautiful Caspian Sea. I think somebody pulled a Jedi Mind Trick (tm) on him because all of a sudden his whole attitude changed and he flashed a twinkling gold tooth at us in a big wide grin. His began to shake all of our hands and welcomed us to his village. A man and his wife were standing nearby listening to the conversation, and also began to engage us. Kenan and Mehpere asked what language we speak, to which he replied, "Do you speak German?'" I said that I speak a little German, and he immediately started rattling off a high speed mixture of German, English, and Turkish. It was enough German and English that I could at least understand him, and before long we were heading toward his humble abode for tea. He wouldn't take no for an answer. Once inside we were treated to some of the best tea we have experienced on our trip, as well as fancy satellite television. We watched the Mecca Muslim channel for a while, as the faithful gathered around the big black cube. Then we watched a portion of Jesus of Nazareth subtitled in Turkish. After that, there was a special on the Whirling Dervishes that made me dizzy just watching. Aphrodite had her hair styled by the daughter, Seyrane, while they exchanged addresses and drew pictures for each other. Before long, dinner was served. Mehpere put out a feast, and we talked about life as a truck driver in Eastern Europe, Central Asia, and the Middle East. We looked at maps, discussed politics, religion, and life in Azerbaijan. We ended watching some soccer on television, leaving our time with this wonderful family filled with food, laughter, and thanks. On our way back to Baku, I took note of just how remote a place Kenan and his family live. They have very little, but they shared with four strangers and foreigners out of their lack. They showed us true hospitality.