Javid and Kennen

 

Our travel to Baku and beyond could not have gone more smoothly.  We made all of our connections, were able to obtain tickets south in a timely manner, and really enjoyed our time in Baku while waiting for our overnight train to Astara.  Walking outside the train station, a man approached us speaking English, asking if we minded him talking to us to practice.  He explained he is learning English as a requirement for his job working on an oil platform in the Caspian Sea.  After a brief conversation in the street, we all went to a Tea Shop to continue our conversations about life in the USA and Azerbaijan.  Javid was very candid as we asked questions ranging from culture, religion, politics, family, Santa Claus, Russians, language, and work.  He was very excited to hear about our lives in the United States, but even more excited to tell us about his.  After a while he called his friend who had just returned that morning by helicopter from the platform.  Although fatigued, Kennen quickly arrived by taxi to join us as we drank our tea and continued our conversations.  Kennen was also very forthright in his discussions about Azerbaijan and his life here.  We have not had many opportunities to delve into such subjects with many people, so we were really excited to spend the time with these two oil workers. 

 

Quickly midnight arrived and it was time for our train to depart for Astara.  Traveling by train has it advantages and disadvantages, but a nice sleeping car provides an opportunity to stretch out and rest for the night as opposed to cramped conditions on a bus.  A major disadvantage is the rare occurrence of a dishonest or downright grumpy train steward.  Since he/she has keys to the sleeping compartments, everyone becomes fair game for oh-dark-thirty wake up calls for no apparent reason, passport hassles, and extra forms to fill out.  Our particular steward wanted extra money for the sheets that are regularly provided with the price of our tickets for the train.  We refused to give the extra money, so he refused to bring the sheets.  He then showed up at 3 AM or so, turning on the lights and demanding our passports.  Later, he returned demanding we go to his office because of the "police".  There were, of course, no police, no problems, no reasons for all this except an obviously drunk steward working for the national railroad of Azerbaijan wanted an extra 2 manats from some American tourists.  Despite the interruptions, we had a nice trip down the coast, awaking to the beautiful Caspian Sea out of one side of the train, and the snow capped Talysh mountains on the other. Life could certainly be worse.